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Judith out and about: Rome – Day 3

22 Dec

September 19: central Italy, Lazio. Destination: Rome.

There is only so much time, but a leisurely stroll through the Borghese Gardens is a perfect start.

At the southeast corner of the Gardens, the Galleria Borghese is a 17th entry palace described by a contemporary as “an Elysium of delight.” Today, it serves an an art museum of the collection of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, which includes works of Bernini, Raphael, Caravaggio, Titian, and Rubens.

Cardinal Borghese not only collected works but also commissioned them. This Judithwas painted by Giovanni Baglione as a commission for him. She is in Room 8, Silenus.

Giovanni Baglione, “Judith with the Head of Holofernes,” 1608, oil on canvas, 220 x 150 cm, Galleria Borghese, Rome, Italy

Now wait a minute … I didn’t know this Judith was here. In fact, I have seen this Judith before – in The Ringling Museum in Sarasota. Nice surprise!!

Fede Galizia, “Judith with the Head of Holofernes,“ 1601, oil on canvas, 141 x 108 cm, Galleria Borghese, Rome, Italy

But Unexpected Disappointment: “Judith in Prayer” by Jacques Stellaand “Judith”by Giovanni Antonio de’ Sacchis (il Pordenone) are in rooms that were not open to the public.

I do not have time or bandwidth to dwell on the missed opportunity or even count how often this happens.

The next and last stop is another palace. Scott declined and found a comfortable spot with cocktails.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is in a palace privately owned by the princely Doria Pamphili family. The bulk of the collection is displayed in a series of four gilded and painted galleries that surround a courtyard.The result is a visual feast of art from the 16th century. (I refer you to Guide to the Doria Pamphilj for an excellent overview.)

Within that feast, it is sometimes difficult to locate what you are searching for because the numbering in the guide is not consecutive. Thus, two trips around the galleries finally produced Judith by Andrea del Brescianino – at the very top row under the glare of lights in the third gallery. I did not have a ladder, so this is the best image I can provide.

Andrea del Brescianino (del Piccinelli), “Judith with the Head of Holofernes,” Oil on panel, 79.3 x 60 cm, Doria Pamphili, Rome, Italy

The wandering to find this Judith was not without benefits because it allowed me to view masterpieces by Velázquez, Caravaggio and Titian. Although <sigh> the Titian is a luminous portrait of Salome (which in the past was thought to be Judith).

But then SURPRISE!! I chanced upon two Judiths here I have never seen!! And they are even more remarkable than the Judith I was seeking. The first is by Giovan Giacomo Sementi (1583-11640) and the second by Mariotto di Bindo di Biagio Albertinelli (1474-1515). More research for me when I return home.

One more unavoidable disappointment: L’Accademia Nazionale di San Luca – where the third and my second-favorite Judith by Piazzetta is displayed – was “temporaneamente chiusa al pubblico per riordino” during our visit.

What more is there to say? We threw a coin in the Trevi fountain, so there is always hope that we will be back to fulfill the Judith Quest.

Footnote: the original plan for this trip was outlined in Judith goes exploring (xiv) March 15, 2012.

 
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Posted by on December 22, 2022 in Exploring

 

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