September 17: central Italy, Lazio. Destination: Rome.
All roads lead to Rome. Certainly, the Judith Quest leads to Rome. Because according to Museumhack, there are at least 24 art museums in the city – not including the churches.
Tackling the Coliseum and the Forum in the Historic City Center in the morning, the logical place to start the afternoon is the Palazzo dei Conservatori of the Musei Capitolini on top of the Capitoline Hill. Although the museum is best known for the ancient Roman statuary, I am seeking a painting in Room VI. And it was found without a problem: the larger-than-life “Judith” by Carlo Maratta.
Once my Quest was fulfilled with this one artwork, I looked for the WC before leaving and SURPRISE!! Across from the entrance to the toilet was a Judith I have never seen!!! I have work to do when I get home!!
I can now walk with a spring in my step to the next location.
The tagline of the next destination, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte, is “One museum, two galleries.” What a bargain! The only problem: Galleria Corsini and Palazzo Barberini are not in proximity, so put on comfortable shoes for the 30 minute hike between them.
From the Capitoline Hill, Galleria Corsini is closer – located next to the Villa Farnese and east of the Tiber. The museum is a palace, sold to the Italian state by Prince Tommaso Corsini who then donated the collection of artworks it contained. I am in search of two Judiths from that collection, and the search was a success.
Judith was painted at least three times by Giovanni Battista Piazzetta – and two of his works are among my favorite portrayals. In Room I (Antechamber), this interpretation of Judith reveals a moment of contemplation before she raises the fauchion to Holofernes’ neck. The lighting casts her in a divine light, with just a fraction falling ominously on her intended victim. I love how it depicts her concentration and her conviction.
Moving to Room VII (the Green Room), I located the very dark “Judith with the Head of Holofernes” by Gerard Seghers. These ladies really could use some light to plan their escape.
At this point, you can probably guess what I’m going to say. <Sigh>. As usual, they detract from Judith’s heroism and virtue by displaying Salome in the same space – as if one severed head is the same as another. My apparent smile is ironic.
The second museum of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica-Palazzo Barberini. The 1500s and 1600s are the centuries best represented at the Barberini. This 16th century fellow with a familiar face is far from home – and I am now curious how he ended up here.
Back to my heroine, the first Judith in the Barberini is in Room XVII (Mannerist Painters) – a flirtatious Judith by Jan Massys.
I feared the second Judith was in storage because I could not locate it online. So it was a welcome relief to find Francesco Furini’s “Judith and Holofernes” in Room 34.
While the previous two Judiths were lovely, the most thrilling moment of the day was standing before Caravaggio’s “Judith Beheading Holofernes.” In fact, this was one of the most thrilling moments of the entire Judith Quest. The detail of this painting and the realism of the figures are exquisite (although Judith’s posture remains problematic). And if you prefer the gory part of the Judith story, Caravaggio is only rivaled by Gentileschi for spurting blood as the fauchion slices into Holofernes’ neck.
It was my privilege to have unlimited time to experience this painting and appreciate its impact on subsequent art. At the end of a long day, I had much gratitude for time well-spent and the opportunity to be in the presence of such masterpieces. Life is good.
Footnote: the original plan for this trip was outlined in Judith goes exploring (xiv) March 15, 2012.
yes, the title says my name is "Judith, to you." and it's as arrogant as it sounds. that's what happens when a giggley little girl is bestowed a heavy-weight name like Judith. but it's time to own my name. to be Shakespearean and wonder "What's in a name?" to learn about the artwork inspired by the name. to contemplate how a widow in a gleaming gown can decapitate a brute - and not muss her nails. join me in the bumpy ride through history and art and social change, all in the name of Judith.
judith2you 